How to Ripen Tomatoes

Knowing when to pick and how to ripen tomatoes should be an easy task. For the novice gardener, like me, checking out a book from the library or doing a quick Internet search should give me the information I need to know regarding what to look for when harvesting these delicious fruits. Unfortunately, there is a long-standing and quite heated debate among gardeners about when to pick tomatoes.

Some say that you should pick your tomatoes at the first signs of light color. Bring them indoors and ripen them in a metal bowl for about 10 days before eating or canning. Others say to wait until the tomatoes are reddish, then pick and allow them to ripen in the window sill. Still others say that you should not pick the tomatoes until they are almost completely red. Of course, there is a very loud voice out there that swears by waiting until the tomatoes are completely ripe on the vine for the best flavor.

Tomatoes all picked while lightly
orange. The smaller ones
ripened in about two days.

What is the right answer? Who knows? And I don't think I could even experiment to tell you. I seriously doubt I could tell the difference between a vine-ripened, bowl-ripened, or window-sill-ripened tomato. My palate is simply not that sophisticated. However, I do know that the benefits to harvesting tomatoes off the vine far outweigh the benefits of leaving them on the plant.

Birds, bugs, and other critters are strongly attracted to ripe tomatoes. By bringing the tomatoes indoors, you lower the risk of losing them completely. They are also less prone to diseases and developing bad spots that can keep the squeamish gardener from enjoying the fruits of his or her labor.

"Green Shoulders" is a term I've seen a lot while researching how to ripen tomatoes. See the tomatoes in the picture above? See the green on top? Apparently, that can happen when you leave a tomato on the vine to ripen in less than ideal circumstances. The green shoulders will stay green, leaving you with a partially inedible tomato. This is an argument for ripening indoors, as the green shoulders should eventually turn into a delicious red.

Two of the green tomatoes that were
"picked" by the dog.

But what about ripening green tomatoes? The dog recently went on another rampage through the garden, during which he so lovingly knocked over a couple of tomato plants. Yes, I have put up fencing and other barriers, but he somehow manages to not care when the neighbor dog is on the other side. I was angry at first, but the tomato plants are hanging in there and I only lost a couple of tomatoes. It also afforded me the opportunity to learn how to ripen tomatoes that are completely green.

Fortunately, there is no shortage of resources on how to ripen green tomatoes. Unfortunately, these resources are as varied as when to pick ripe tomatoes from the vine. Most sources suggest wrapping green tomatoes in newspaper and placing in a box or paper bag with a slice of apple or banana. Unwrap each tomato each day, throw out the ones that have rotted, then re-wrap until they have ripened. This process can take weeks. However, I have learned that green tomatoes placed in the window sill should eventually ripen, though it may take a bit longer.

The last piece of contention is where to ripen these tomatoes. Some say a window sill, because it is often the warmest place in the house. Others say that tomatoes should be ripened on a counter top, away from the harsh sunlight. Some also say to keep tomatoes completely in the dark. I figure that my tomatoes are outside anyway, so I'm using the windowsill. It's an area that is mostly shaded as you can tell by the photos that were taken well after sunrise. So far, the ripening process has been successful, and it has only been a couple of days.

Garden Experiment Updates

I have several ongoing experiments in and around the garden. They are each seeing varying degrees of success and failure. Following is an update to each of them.

The Healthy Tomato Plant Experiment

The garden is so overgrown you can scarcely see how
awesome Esther Epsom looks.

The experiment with my tomatoes was a noble one. I chose four different tomato plants and side-dressed one with epsom salt, one with coffee grounds, one with egg shells, and one was left to accept its nutrients from the soil. The dog immediately ate the plant that was treated with egg shells. The day after I updated the experiment, the dog also demolished the plant that was treated with coffee grounds. The experiment was no more. However, I did continue giving epsom salt to one plant and nothing to the other to see what would happen. The tomato plant with the epsom salt treatments grew fast and strong and was the first to bear fruit. It has many more little green tomatoes than the other one, though the other one is looking quite healthy now as well. Still, I'm more than ever sold on the merits of epsom salt on tomatoes.


The Power of Epsom Salts
I have heard and read that epsom salt is an amazing choice for gardens. Supposedly, it makes leaves greener, vegetables brighter, and the soil healthier. I have used epsom salt throughout the garden, both on inground plants and in containers. I have learned that epsom salt is excellent on tomatoes, peppers, and flowers. It definitely had the opposite effect on the cucumbers. While the vegetables themselves are still going strong, the leaves are very unhappy.

Brown cucumber leaves due to a direct
application of epsom salt.

Natural Pest Repellents
I have used no chemicals on my garden this year to repel bugs, a trend that I plan to continue. I tried several methods and found the ones that work and don't work:

• Peppermint rubbed on the undersides of leaves repelled nearly all pests from squash and okra. The okra plants were covered in aphids until a quick treatment with peppermint.
• Ground chili pepper around the perimeter of the garden kept rabbits away. This had to be replaced after rain, but after a while they just stopped coming around.
• Coffee grounds keeps slugs away. However, the coffee grounds must stay on the soil and can't actually touch leaves, especially lettuce. 
• Lemon balm and garlic were ineffective in combating pests.

Gardening in Shade vs. Full Sun

A number of plants were given to me and I conducted an experiment with them, putting some in an area that is shaded for the majority of the day and the rest in a spot that receives full sun all day long. The results were a bit surprising to me. They do not receive the same amount of water - I have been watering the sun-plants every day and the shade-plants every other day. They are in various sizes of containers and some of the shaded plants are in the ground.

Sunlight is a foe when temperatures are 105.

I expected the shade garden plants to die quickly. Quite the opposite is true. All but one of the sun plants are dead. The high temperatures and extreme sunlight has destroyed them almost completely. On the other hand, the shade garden plants look okay. They are certainly not dying, but they are not growing either. In fact, they look pretty much the same now as they did when I first planted them almost a month ago.  

Shade Garden: June 17

Shade Garden: July 5

Tomato Plant in Shade Garden: July 5

Planting the Fall Garden
My 6-year-old and I are planning the fall garden and we decided to start our plants as suggested. We had to place the seed tray outside due to lack of adequate sunny spots in the house. We chose the filtered sun of the shade garden for the location of the seed pots. I'm happy to report that, after only three days, seedlings are already emerging. In fact, all of the varieties have sprouted and only three out of fourteen seed pots do not have signs of life yet. Now the question is, can we keep the momentum going until it is time to plant these little guys in the ground?

Seed Pots: July 5

Planting a Kids' Garden
I let Gus decide what he wanted to plant, when to water, where the seeds would go, and basically gave him complete control over the destiny of the kids' garden. He placed a variety of vegetables and herbs through the garden in an assortment of containers. I am pleased to report that the pumpkin, green beans, and cucumbers are growing very well. In fact, we are ready to begin pruning back some of the growth. The rest of the plants have not yet grown and it looks unlikely that they will at this point. I have mostly found that giving the kids their own garden helps them to be excited about the entire process.  I consider the kids' garden to be a huge success.

Kids' Garden Container Pumpkins: July 5

Planning the Fall Garden

Summer has already been brutal here in the Midwest. For the past week or so, we have experienced extreme temperatures, ranging from 101 to 105 most days. We haven't seen any rain for weeks and the forecast as of now is to expect more of the same.

We're not quite there yet, but it's getting Grapes of Wrath-ier.

I checked out some books from our public library to help me to be the best hobby gardener I could be. So far, the best I've read is The Essential Urban Farmer. This book gives a lot of detail, and goes into much greater ventures than I ever plan to undertake, but it's quite helpful and a good resource for anyone who wants to start giving themselves a healthier alternative to store bought foods. As I've said repeatedly, the cleanest foods are those you grow yourself, organically, without the need of pesticides, growth agents, and other chemicals.

One thing that stood out for me with this book, and others, is the thought of a garden being a year-round project. I grew up with a garden in the backyard. My family ate a bounty of zucchini, cucumbers, lettuce, tomatoes, and green beans every year. Still, I never once thought that gardening was a project that could continue through the fall and even winter months. It's hard to think about fall crops when temps are topping out at 106, but according to the resources I've consulted, it's time to start those seeds.

Yesterday, the 6-year-old and I dug out our seed album. A tip from Pinterest suggested that we store our seeds in a photo album, which has turned out to be a great way to sort and organize the seeds we want to plant at various times of the year. Right now, our album is filled with fall seeds. Supposedly, we will need to plant our seeds for the fall garden in mid-July for a fall harvest. However, the extreme heat, I feel, may be too much for the plants to grow well. Instead, we are going to wait until August and see what happens. If nothing grows, we chock it up to experience.

The Essential Urban Farmer suggests that we focus on crops that are fast-maturing, easy-to-grow, high-yielding, and are relatively expensive in stores. This will help the most with food bills and will make the biggest impact on daily meals. Because of this, according to the book, we should focus our efforts on broccoli, potatoes, spinach, lettuce, and carrots. So, we're going to do that. Sort of.

Gus and I started our broccoli seedlings yesterday, but we also threw in some cauliflower and brussels sprouts. Gus wanted to try to start lettuce and sunflowers early, and since we had extra seeds, we did that as well. We don't have adequate light inside our house, so we put the seedling tray in the shade garden. It will still be hot, but the filtered sunlight may be enough to help the plants grow. Really, it's our only shot at growing seedlings unless I invest in a grow lamp, so my fingers are crossed that the heat doesn't overwhelm.

The other issue that we face is our extremely limited garden space. Some people can plant fall gardens in the summer when their summer gardens are still producing, but I haven't the area from which to choose. Instead, I need to wait until some crops have stopped producing, or have died, and then use that spot for our new veggies. Or maybe I'll end up digging up a new spot for the fall garden. The grass is already dead, and by that I mean completely and totally dead to the point that we will probably have to re-sod. So, a new garden bed? Yes, that could happen.

Either way, along with the seedlings that may or may not happen, we will be planting kale, spinach, carrots, bunching onions, radishes, beets, and chard. With any luck, we'll have fresh veggies through early winter, at which time the winter garden should be in full-swing.

Power Food: Swiss Chard

Many years ago, I purchased a vegetarian cookbook that contains a number of delicious and time-consuming recipes. Because the cookbook was written in the UK, a number of the foods that are referenced are ones I had never heard of before. I could tell from pictures that courgettes and aubergine were British English for zucchinis and eggplants. But the elusive silverbeet? I had no idea, but the name made me think of these disgusting little bugs known as silverfish.

Not exactly my favorite source of protein

As it turns out, the silverbeet, known in other circles as Swiss Chard, is one of the most nutritious foods you can eat. I have never tried it before and, in fact, didn't even know what it was until a couple of days ago. I was reading through (okay, obsessing over) different ways to continue with my latest gardening passion by planting second season crops. A number of sources suggested I plant chard in my fall garden. So many, in fact, that I decided to run to the market and give it a shot.

Both the leaves and the stalks of swiss chard are edible. Young leaves are used in salads or on sandwiches, like any other greens. The flavor is lightly bitter, which makes them excellent choices to accompany sweet salads. I love to make salads with blue cheese, nuts, diced apples, and dried cranberries. As it turns out, chard is a tasty alternative to other fresh greens.

Swiss Chard

Once chard ages, it is still edible, but is better when it is cooked. Some sources have said to use the leaves along with or instead of cooked spinach. Others have said that the stalks can replace asparagus. Because I love both spinach and asparagus, I'm anxious to try it this way.

As for the health benefits of chard, there are many. The vegetable is high in vitamins, nutrients, and minerals. It is also high in antioxidants, including syringic acid, which can help to regulate blood sugar.

Health Benefits of Swiss Chard 
Serving Size: 1 cup, 0 grams of fat, 35 calories
Vitamin K: 572.77 mcg
Vitamin A: 10717 IU
Vitamin C: 31.5 mg
Magnesium: 150.5 mg
Manganese: .58 mg
Potassium: 960.75 mg
Iron: 3.96 mg
Vitamin E: 3.31 mg
Fiber: 3.67 g
Calcium: 101.5 mg
Protein: 3.29 g
Folate: 15.75 mcg
as well as trace amounts of Vitamins B1, B2, B3, B5, and B6

Are the health benefits of swiss chard not enough? Also consider what swiss chard does for your garden. I have no proof of this, but I have read that chard is an excellent companion to crops like beans, tomatoes, onions, cabbages, and even roses. The natural magnesium and potassium in the plant makes it a good addition to a compost pile and may even help to keep your tomato leaves from turning purple before your soil has had a chance to warm up. Speaking of warm, chard will grow well into the summer and can withstand colder temperatures as well. Or so I've read. I'm going to find out this fall. When I do, we will hopefully have a surplus of swiss chard to share with all of our friends and neighbors, or at least enough to try some of the delicious silverbeet recipes I have, until now, been afraid to try.

Biggest Gardening Mistakes

I am still learning about how to be an expert hobbyist part-time obsessive-compulsive gardener. As such, I am making a lot of mistakes along the way. This post will likely have many additions as spring turns into summer and fall approaches.

Gardening: What Not to Do

Use At-Home Pest Control with Too Much Gusto
I read on several blogs that the best way to rid plants of pests is with hand soap, chili pepper, and garlic mixed in a warm water solution. Spray on the leaves of your plants and VOILA! No more bugs! This is true - the bugs are gone. So are the leaves. Either I used too much soap or the wrong kind, but it basically turned my green bean plants into black leaf plants. Luckily, I had the foresight to test it out on a few plants first before applying to the rest of my garden.

Overplant
My yard is tiny, therefore my garden plot is tiny. However, what is not tiny is my desire. Because of this, I have planted and planted and planted to the point that all the plants are very likely to suffocate themselves when and if they manage to grow.

Tempt a Dog with Eggshells
I dried the eggshells just as I was supposed to do and I buried them as best I could in the soil. Still, they attracted my dog and I lost the one plant that I was experimenting with on the first day. Also, I learned to test all forms of organic pest control on the dog first. As it turns out, he really enjoys garlic and will go through the garden to get to it. Chili pepper? Not so much.

Water Overhead
I learned this lesson last year, but I didn't know about it until this year, if that makes sense. I couldn't figure out last summer why all of my plants had white spots on their leaves, but I now know that this is a mold that is due largely to watering overhead. I exclusively used this method to water my garden last year - now I am mostly using the drip method.

Gardening in the Shade

I love to experiment with my garden so that I can find what works and what doesn't. This year, through experimentation, I have learned:

1. The best way to get rid of aphids.
   Rinse aphids off of plants with cold water, then rub the undersides of affected leaves with peppermint.
2. The natural additives to soil that make plants look bigger and better.
   Epsom salts are a big, cheap way to improve the health and appearance of garden plants.
3. Not all hand soaps are created equally.
   Anti-bacterial hand soap is toxic to leaves.

Now, I am experimenting with shade.

A couple of weeks ago, I was given a ridiculous number of tomato and pepper plants. Well, four tomato plants, but a ridiculous number of pepper plants. I planted a couple of tomato plants in my sunny garden and placed a pepper in a planter on my deck. Being out of room and in the midst of re-landscaping the front yard, I decided to give shade planting a try.

First, I turned to my close, personal friend, the Internet. I posed the question: "Can I grow pepper plants in shaded gardens?" The answer was mixed. Some sites state that peppers actually do better in partial sun to shade. Others said that peppers need at least eight hours of direct sun every day. Let the experiments begin!

The area where I am placing my peppers is a shady spot that gets indirect sunlight about half of the day and no sunlight the rest. Most of the peppers are in containers, though I did place a couple in an the raised bed pictured above. I have also placed two tomato plants in this bed as well as a basil plant and a number of marigolds.

Next to the raised bed are a number of containers. There is coleus. There is a sweet potato vine. There is aloe. And there are peppers and basil. This spot is mostly shaded throughout the day.

Because these plants are getting far less sun, I am also watering them less often. I'm sticking to watering all of the plants about twice each week. I have treated them all with epsom salt. I have used compost, and I have mulched. Thus far, the plants don't look like they are ready to die, but they don't look like they are ready to fruit either. Most of what I've read says that tomatoes that are planted in the shade will still grow, but if they do develop fruit, it will be at a much slower rate. They were put in the ground June 9. I'll update the experiment again on June 30-ish. 

Why Are My Pepper Plants Turning Purple?

I'm still learning about gardening and every day is an adventure. A few days ago, the latest adventure came when I discovered that my banana peppers had purple streaks in their stalks and all of my pepper plants have purple joints. I was certain that this was some kind of horrible pepper disease and all of my pepper plants are going to die. As it turns out, that is not the case.

Question: Why are my pepper plant's leaves turning purple?
Answer: If the leaves are curled, the purple can be caused by a nutrient deficiency. Just as with marigolds, this should be cured through fertilization, but unlike marigolds, the nutrient that is deficient is not necessarily phosphorus. The plants could be short on nitrogen, magnesium, calcium, or a mixture of these four. Testing the soil or testing the leaves themselves is a possibility that may help to determine how best to treat the plants.

Question: Why is my pepper plant's stem turning purple?
Answer: This can be a sign of over-watering, overly cold conditions, overly hot conditions, or too much wind. Or, for most pepper plants and some tomato plants, it's a sign of anthocyanin. This is a natural occurring pigment in plants that is useful for attracting butterflies and bees. In short, it's not necessarily a bad thing. Sometimes, the anthocyanin in plants will become even more prevalent when plants are unhealthy, as the pigment also helps to release antioxidants to fight whatever it is that ails the plant.

Question: I have purple pepper plants, now what do I do?
Answer: If the purple is slight and veiny, you don't need to do anything except stop worrying about your pepper plants. Move on to more pressing concerns like how to keep your dog out of your garden. If the entire stem is dark purple or if the leaves are curled, take a look at what is happening in your garden. If your garden is overly sunny, try shading your pepper plants during the day. If you are having difficulty keeping your plants watered, mulch them well. Try fertilizing or watering with diluted epsom salt. When you've done all of these things, let me know what works for you!

The Healthy Tomato Plant Experiment, Part 2

It is June 6, and the Healthy Tomato Plant Experiment continues. For those who aren't familiar with the experiment and are too lazy to read the previous post, I chose three different fertilizing techniques and tried them out on three tomato plants that seemed to be on death's door. A fourth tomato plant was left untouched. These all came from the same tray, they receive the same amount of sunlight and the same amount of water.

Esther Epsom, June 6

Esther Epsom, May 20

Esther Epsom was treated with epsom salts, both diluted in water and as a side fertilizer at the base. She began with yellow and brown drooping leaves. I was certain I would be pulling this plant, and all of the others, and cursing myself for wasting fifty cents on these four plants.

On the contrary, Esther has grown quite strong, tall, and very green. Yes, I realize that I am a horrible photographer and you will just have to take my word for it. From what I can tell, epsom salt is the real deal. Of course, the proof will be in the production of fruit, which is still on the horizon.

Esther Epsom received another treatment with epsom salts, both at the base and through watering, and the leaves and blossoms were spritzed with an epsom salt solution as well. The next treatment will be on Wednesday, June 20.

Cathy Coffee, May 20

Cathy Coffee, June 6

Cathy Coffee was treated with old coffee grounds in her base and was given a thorough "watering" with cold coffee. I had read mixed messages about whether or not coffee is a good idea for tomato plants, due to the acidity it adds to the soil. As you can see by the picture at left, Cathy did not have far to go to become damaged beyond any help.

As far as I can tell, the coffee grounds have not damaged the plant. The leaves are green and it is blossoming well. Cathy has not grown as well as Esther, but the experiment is still in progress.

Cathy received another treatment of coffee grounds this morning and will be "watered" with cold coffee this afternoon once I'm certain that my husband is finished with his coffee drinking and the pot has cooled off. It should be noted that we drink our coffee very, very strong. The next treatment will be Wednesday, June 20.

Eddie Eggshell, May 20

Eddie Eggshell, June 6

Eddie Eggshell was treated with crushed eggshells. This is supposed to add nutrients to the plant and is supposedly an effective deterrent against slugs, rabbits, and other garden pests. Eggshells, no matter how they are baked, cured, or mixed with soil, are not an effective deterrent against dogs.

Eddie was treated with eggshells on May 20. Eddie was eaten by my dog on May 21. RIP Eddie Eggshell. You will be missed.

I chose not to redo the experiment with eggshells for a couple of reasons. First, I felt that the experiment would not be as accurate as it could be, since these four plants were purchased together. Any other plant I chose would not have the same advantage or disadvantage as the others. Second, I assume the dog would just dig up any plant that had eggshells near it. Frankly, he already wants to tear up the garden. Eggshells are just taunting him for no reason.

Tom Tomato, May 20

Tom Tomato, June 6

Tom Tomato is the control plant, treated only with water and no other form of fertilization. I have not bought or used food spikes, fertilizer spikes, or any other thing at all. Water, sun, and love is it for Tom Tomato.

You may not be able to tell from this picture, but Tom is hanging in there, though he is easily the smallest and the least healthy looking of the three.

As of now, I believe that epsom salts are the best choice for a natural fertilizer. In fact, I'm so convinced of it that I'm treating several of my other plants with epsom salts as well. I have two Lemon Boy tomato plants that are dying, but have been given a thorough epsom salt treatment. I am also treating my okra plants, which are (for now) the only plants in the garden that have been attacked by spider mites. I also did a light spritz of  water and diluted epsom salts on all of the plants except for those that are part of this experiment.

The saga continues in two weeks.

Coveting My Neighbor's Garden

My next door neighbor, Jennifer, is all thumbs - green thumbs, that is. Her garden is insane. Every time I walk past I turn green with envy - if only that green could translate into my own plants! Her garden is lush and leafy and looks as though it were grown by a true professional. How does she do it?

My Neighbor's Garden, the Happiest Place on Earth

I caught my neighbor last night as she was trying to enjoy a stroll around the block with her one-year old son. She was kind enough to give me some of her tips, tricks, and deepest, darkest secrets to having a garden that turns heads. Don't worry, there is no animal sacrifice or selling of souls involved.

Ignore the Calendar
I felt like a rebel this year when I set out most of my plants and seeds before Mother's Day. Jennifer shared with me that she follows no such stringent guidelines or old-wives-tales about waiting until that magical weekend to insure plants against frost. Using common sense and perhaps a bit of projection about our early spring, she set out the bulk of her garden in April. The sunflowers that are literally well-visible over the privacy fence were planted in March! I had long thought that only peas and lettuce were fair game that time of year, but the sunflowers alone prove me wrong.

Use Manure and Compost
Quite a revelation, huh? Any blog or gardening guide around the web is going to tell you to use manure and compost for your garden. However, those of us with small gardens or who just don't like the smell of manure may decide to go a different route. I purchased bags of Miracle Grow soil at Walmart. It certainly won't kill my plants, but I won't have the same kind of yield as the garden next door. Next year, I'm going to be knee deep in poo.

Fertilize with Wood Ash
My neighbor added wood ash to her garden as a fertilizer. I have read mixed advice about the pros and cons of wood ash and I have been scared to give it a try. A good idea might be to use some wood ash in a container to see how it positively or negatively affects a plant. Look at this link for some tips on using wood ash if you are interested in learning more.

Leafy and Green Does Not Equal High Yields
Jennifer reminded me last night that garden plants can grow significantly yet have little to no yield. She encouraged me not to gauge the success of her garden on the size of her plants but on the amount of fruits and vegetables produced. Basically, she was telling me to stop being so jealous of her gardening skills and to get over it, but what she was saying is true. Over-fertilization can actually cause plants to focus efforts on growing more leaves, but that usually draws from fruit production. I have faith that Jennifer's garden will produce more than enough to support her family and all of the family's on the block, but that does remain to be seen.

If you find yourself face-to-face with a successful gardener, my advice to you is to not belittle your own efforts. Try to learn from these people; often, they are not only willing but also eager to share their knowledge. Keep asking, keep learning, and eventually, people will start coming to you with gardening questions such as these.

How to Keep Your Dog Out of the Garden

I have covered how to get rid of spider mites and rabbits, and I am pleased to report that neither have been an issue for me since I started the organic methods of removal and prevention. The layer of chili pepper has kept rabbits out handily, thus I have only lost three okra plants in total to the vile creatures. Last year, I didn't have an issue with spider mites until later in the summer, but I am using preventative measures by regularly spraying the undersides of the most susceptible leaves with cold water.

Right now, there is a whole other issue at hand. That issue is named Geronimo.

Geronimo, destroyer of opossums,
neglected sandbox toys, and gardens.

Geronimo was a pound puppy when we first saw him over eight years ago. We were won over at first by his shy and retreating nature when we saw him in his cell at the Humane Society. As soon as we brought him home, however, the beast arose.

In all of these years, Geronimo has been our protector. He guards us against strangers, friends, neighbors, wildlife, sudden bursts of wind, and the gate next door that sometimes comes open if it hasn't been shut all the way. Yes, Geronimo is a true hero. Unfortunately, the garden is in his territory, and when Geronimo goes into protection mode, nothing gets in his way. Thus far, Geronimo has protected us against five green bean plants, one tomato plant, one jalapeno plant, a planter filled with basil, and countless marigolds - and it's only May. I'd be impressed if I weren't so angry.

The problem is, how do I protect this garden from the family pet? How do I keep my dog from destroying my garden? As always, it's the Internet to the rescue, and I have found a number of possible, laughable, and slightly dangerous options from which to choose.

Coat Hangers
One blog suggested placing untwisted coat hangers into the ground around the garden, jutting out in various angles because, "Dogs don't like to get poked." Neither do my children's corneas. My main question is, why draw the line at coat hangers? Why not suggest broken glass around the garden's perimeter? How about a nice, liberal sprinkling of hydrochloric acid? Maybe an army of angry bees?

Chili Pepper
Again with the chili pepper. It is an effective deterrent for rabbits, as I've found, so it would make sense that chili pepper would keep other animal at bay as well. If your issue is that your dog is eating items in your garden, chili pepper could work wonders. The same has been said of garlic, coffee grounds, and bitter orange. However, this may not be effective against the dog who is simply terrorizing the garden because he has nothing better to do.



Rose Bushes
Again, the purpose here is to deter the dog through pain. The theory is that you should plant rose bushes around your garden, forcing him through the brambles each time he enters. Eventually he will equate the garden with pain and will then leave it alone. It sounds reasonable, until I remember that I also have to get to the garden at some point. Can I trust myself to get through the rose bushes without a scratch? I have many gifts, but grace is not one of them. I can scarcely make it across the carpeted floor without losing a toenail. When I purposefully place hundreds of sharp objects in my own proximity, I am testing fate in a way that best be left untested.

The Fence Within a Fence
First, you have a fence to keep small children and pets hidden from those that lurk on the outside and may choose to cause us harm. Inside of this fence is yet another fence, meant to kept the small children and pets from the things upon which they may cause harm. Inside of this is another fence, meant to keep the vegetables and the flowers separated. Then there is another fence, this one's just for the beetles. Where does it end? The concept of fencing a fenced yard reminds me of an Escher painting, and that is never a good thing.



Water Torture
Remember what a big deal it was in the 2008 election that John McCain was so vehemently against waterboarding? We haven't heard much about it lately, and that is, perhaps, because the world has found how effective it is in keeping dogs out of the garden. I'm not here to debate enhanced interrogation, but I am here to tell you that dogs don't like getting sprayed with water. You can either try to catch your dog in the act and douse him or you can keep a sprinkler running on the garden when it and your dog are alone together.





Stop Having a Dog
The most effective way to keep a dog out of your garden is to not have a dog. Of course, for most of us, this is an impossibility. For now, I will try to catch Geronimo in the act and spray him down as many times as I can. Otherwise, I'll settle for being occasionally furious. I may hold a grudge against him, but he loves me anyway.

Update: I decided to try chili pepper on the perimeter of the garden and I have been shocked at its effectiveness. Geronimo is no longer a threat! Also, in case you thought I was exaggerating about my clumsiness, I lost a toenail tonight as I was walking across the garage with my son. I don't even know how it happened.

The Healthy Tomato Plant Experiment, Part 1

If you have ever looked around the web for advice for the organic home gardener, you no doubt have seen more than one site that suggests the use of epsom salt.

Epsom salt is not really a salt at all. This mineral, whose origins trace to Epsom, England, contains sulfur and magnesium, two ingredients that are vital to the growth of healthy plants. Most experts are skeptical about the benefits of epsom salt on plants. They state that the effects have not been proven, and that most soil offers adequate sulfur naturally. Magnesium deficiencies, on the other hand, are fairly common. Not only that, but a lack of magnesium can lead to improper absorption of phosphorous, which we all know is a bad thing.

The application of epsom salt can be during the time of planting, diluted in water (at a rate of 1tbsp to 1gallon) and used as a spray, or applied directly to the plant's base. Most sources say that you will have greener leaves, tastier vegetables, and healthier plants if you spray with diluted epsom salt every couple of weeks.

I decided to give epsom salt a shot. I diluted one tablespoon of epsom salt in a gallon of water. I then put as much as I could in a spray bottle and sprayed the leaves of some of the plants. I then watered the tomato plants and some of the herbs with the rest of the water. After that, I decided to really experiment with additives to my tomato plants.

I have four roma tomato plants that I bought at the supermarket for 50 cents. None of them look amazing, and in fact, I expect them all to die. I have planted them throughout the garden, staked them, fussed over their yellowing leaves, and generally stressed about their well-being. They look pretty bad. However, their possibly short lives will not be in vain, as they are going to help me with my garden experiment.

I have named the four plants, because that's how I roll. Esther has a bit of an advantage over the rest of the tomato plants because she received epsom salts a day before the rest had their treatment. Esther has already been watered with an epsom salt mixture and will continue to receive epsom salts at her base and through water once every two weeks or until she dies, whichever comes first. The next application will be on June 6.

Esther Epsom

Cathy is not getting epsom salt, but coffee grounds. Coffee grounds are said by some to be an excellent addition to plants that like acidic soils. Coffee grounds add nitrogen to the soil once they decompose, and also can add calcium and are said to stop blight. This makes them ideal for tomato plants, and some blogs suggest watering with leftover, cold coffee once a week. Of course, there are naysayers who suggest that the acidic nature of coffee grounds can actually harm the soil. They should only be added when balanced as part of a compost pile. Still, an experiment is an experiment and Cathy will receive an inch of coffee grounds every two weeks and a small amount of cold coffee every other week as well. The first application will be today, May 20. The next will be June 6.

Cathy Coffee

Eddie gets eggshells. Eggshells are a popular choice for tomato fertilizer because they contain calcium carbonate, which balances the pH levels in the soil. Eggshells are cleaned, then crushed, and worked into the soil around the plants. This will be a little tricky for me, because I have already applied mulch around my tomato plants. However, I have read that they can be used as a side dressing every six weeks. I am currently working on readying some eggshells for depositing around the plant and should have enough by tomorrow. The next application will be July 2 or 3.

Eddie Eggshell

Tom is the control plant and gets none of the above. I did already water him with diluted epsom salt yesterday, but going forward I will just use water.

As you can see by this picture as well as the one above, I will never be accused of being a professional photographer. Trust me when I tell you that most of the leaves are wilting and either purple, grey, or yellow. They have improved somewhat from when they were originally purchased a week ago.

Tom Tomato

Natural Ways to Rid Gardens of Rabbits

I went outside this afternoon to water my garden and found that half of my okra plants are gone. The only culprit I could imagine is the dreaded rabbit. The neighborhood is teeming with them, and they are evil.

It must be said that I am not a rabbit lover. I don't see what the appeal is in them. They are rodents. They are rats with fluffy tails and big ears. I understand that some people keep them as pets. Some people keep snakes as pets too. Whatever. People are weird. That said, I still don't want to kill a rabbit. What I want is to find a way to keep them out of my garden.

I would maybe kill this one.

Fencing the Garden
One option, possibly the easiest option, is to fence the garden. That option does not work for me. I want quick access to everything on a regular basis. If I so much as tried to put up chicken wire, I would get so frustrated after the first attempt at getting through it that I would probably tear down the whole thing. I've never stated that patience is my best quality.

Being a Freak
One blog post I read suggested that I leave human hair and/or dried blood around the garden. Suffice it to say, that is not going to happen. The day that I gain easy access to enough blood and human hair to encircle a garden, rabbits will not be my primary concern.

Making it Spicy
Apparently, rabbits are very sensitive to spicy foods. This is why you so seldom see rabbits eating at Thai restaurants. If you use chili pepper around your plants, according to people who may or may not know what they are talking about, rabbits will stay away.

Creating a Diversion
Whereas rabbits do not love spicy foods, they do love leafy greens. If you set up a rabbit diner far away from the garden, they will take to the food that is ready and waiting for them. Some suggested main dishes are cabbage and lettuce. Linen tablecloths are optional.

Leaving Your Dog Outside
This has been an effective move for us in the past, but picking up the pieces of bunny bodies is unpleasant. Fortunately, that is my husband's job.

Liquid Rabbit Deterrent
Home and garden stores sell sprays that keep the rabbits away. Some are said to be organic and biodegradable, usually because they're made with urine.

In a few moments, I am going to sprinkle chili powder around my plants. I'll be happy to report back to let you know if this was as effective as using chili powder to deter ants in my kitchen (which was not at all effective). If it doesn't work, at least I have an idea for the rabbits that stumbled through the chili powder.

Delicious!

How to Get Rid of Spider Mites

Spider mites are a big problem in my garden. I had no experience with them until last year, when they covered the underside of my squash. I didn't even know what they were until I spent an afternoon Googling the tiny creatures and learned that these mites are teeny tiny spiders that suck the life out of plants en masse. Think of that episode of The Walking Dead where the zombies go after that one guy. You know the one I'm talking about.

Extreme closeup of a spider mite.

I was adamant last year that I would not use a pesticide. I tried spraying the plants with water in the early morning, but they just seemed to thank me for the much needed break and went right back to chomping away on the garden. I finally bought some Sevin, which killed them all immediately. When they came back a few weeks later, I Sevined them again. It was too late for my squash plants, but at least the mites were dead. However, a part of me was very upset as I prefer to have a garden that is free from chemicals. I am not adamant about it, but I'll try anything before resorting to using a miticide.


As I was pulling weeds from the garden recently, I noticed the tell-tale sign of spider mites to come: the spider mite egg.

Not a pretty site.

Again, I turned to my good friend Google to learn of the various ways to get rid of spider mites. Go ahead and Google it yourself - there are pages upon pages, entire web sites even, devoted to this tiny bug. Apparently, I'm not the only one troubled by them. Some of the sources I consulted are tried and true, including advice from university resources. Some are clearly dummy web sites tied to organic pesticides. There are also those from some random dude who read something in a book somewhere one time. Following is a concise breakdown of all of the information I have found.

• Spider mites like plants that are too dry, so keep your plants well watered. Consider misting leaves with a spray bottle once each day.
• Spider mites like plants that are very wet, but they don't like the cold. Use ice water to spray them from leaves.
• Mix one part rubbing alcohol with two parts water and either spray on leaves or apply directly with a cotton ball. Repeat daily for one week.
• Mix two tbsp of dish detergent with one cup of water. Spray plants with mixture and allow to dry, then water as usual. Repeat daily for one week.
• Mix one part rubbing alcohol, one part water, and two drops of dishwashing soap together, then spray on the plants in the early morning, then repeat 20 minutes later.
• Quarantine plants with spider mite damage. Yeah, I don't know either. Maybe you put up a sign? Use police tape?
• Introduce insects that feed on spider mites, like lacewings and ladybugs.
• Soak cotton balls in essential orange oil. Apply to the underside of leaves, then bury the cotton balls next to the plant as a warning to other spider mites. It's much easier than putting their tiny little heads on skewers.
• Same things as above, except with rosemary oil.
• Shade plants on very hot days.
• Pick the most heavily infested leaves off of plants and dispose of them in plastic bags.
• Just kill them with Sevin and wash your food before you eat it.

I have to make note of a particular phrase that I found more than a little amusing. This comes from www.howtogetridofspidermites.net:

"Pesticides are safe to use but they can poison birds, bees, fish and humans."

So you're saying that pesticides are a safe way to poision people?

As you can tell, practically every expert has a method of getting rid of spider mites. The most commonly suggested ones I found are introducing ladybugs and spraying with isopropyl alcohol and water. If and when I find the bugs on my plants, I'll let you now which method works the best. Until then, I'll be stocking up on ladybugs and rubbing alcohol.

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Tomato Leaves Turning Yellow?

This is not a gardening blog, per se, but a blog about clean eating and healthy choices. One of the cleanest, healthiest things a person can do for his or her body is to eat locally grown foods. What's more local than your own backyard? Therefore, a lot of gardening information is present and a lot more is on the way.

Currently, I have about 14 tomato plants that are in various stages of health. Ten of these plants came from a local nursery for the whopping price tag of $2. That's not $2 each; that is $2 total. I asked, before I purchased, if the low price meant that the plants were about to die. Sidebar: I do not have a green thumb. I desperately want to, but I have to really work at it not to kill every plant that comes into contact with me. I once overwatered a cactus to the point that it exploded. No kidding. He assured me that the only reason the tomato plants were so cheap was that they were outgrowing their containers and needed some TLC. He said that as soon as I put them in the ground or in larger containers, they would be as good as new.

I immediately brought the plants home and planted them in the containers I had. Unfortunately, I failed to calculate just how much space I didn't have. I ended up planting four of the plants between rows of squash. We'll have to wait it out to see if that was as big of a mistake as I fear it could be. The plants seem to be doing okay, but they all have yellow leaves.

Why Do Tomato Plants Get Yellow Leaves?


There are a number of reasons tomato plants have yellow leaves:

• Lack of proper nutrition in the soil
• Inadequate sunlight
• Improper watering
• Bug infestation
• Fungus or Bacterial Problem

How to Improve Yellow Leaves on Tomato Plants

If you have yellow leaves on your tomato plants, first check the obvious culprits. Do you see a number of caterpillars on your plants? Are your tomatoes shaded for most of the day? Is the soil overly dry? If so, you know what the fix is, though it may not always be easy. You can choose an organic pesticide to rid your garden of caterpillars, though there are other suggested methods that may work well. This spring, I've decided to plant flowers that attract caterpillars - away from the tomatoes. I read it in a blog somewhere, so it must work, right? I'll let you know.

If you're underwatering, that truly is an easy fix. Make sure, when you add water to the soil, you do so at soil level rather than from above. If you water from above, you run the risk of your plants developing mildew and no one wants that. Overwatering can also cause yellow leaves. As long as the soil is still moist, you need not water tomato plants more than every other day. During the height of summer, especially if temperatures are extreme, you will need to water daily.

Plants that are in containers can easily be moved to a sunnier spot, but what happens if you planted your tomatoes in the ground. Do you uproot them and try to start over? Tomatoes must have at least seven hours of sunlight every day to grow well. Otherwise, leaves may grow, but tomatoes will not. Unless the tomato plants are still quite small, digging them out of the ground is a big no-no. Tomatoes have very delicate roots, and cutting into them could be a recipe for disaster. Instead, wait it out and see what happens, then remember to plant in a sunny spot next year.

An easy way to attempt to green up the tomato plant's leaves is to give the soil more nitrogen. This can be accomplished through adding manure or fertilizer. The University of Missouri's Division of Plant Sciences offers excellent guidelines on the proper amounts of nitrogen and phosphorous to add and when.

More Information on Tomato Plants

A Way to Garden: Tomato Growing FAQs

Ten Mistakes to Avoid When Growing Tomatoes

Tomato Casual - Loads of Advice for Tomato Growers

Why Do My Marigolds Have Purple Leaves?

At first, I didn't think much of it. Some plants have purple leaves. I thought, maybe marigolds get them too and I never noticed. No big, right? Wrong. Or, at least maybe wrong.

I did some digging and found that the reason marigolds, and other plants, develop purple leaves is due to a lack of phosphorous. This can mean that either the soil itself is not rich in phosphorous or the plant is unable to absorb phosphorous efficiently.

With marigolds, cold weather can keep them from absorbing phosphorous. Here in Missouri, it has been in the mid-70s to low 80s since I set out the plants, but at night it is dipping into the low 50s, which could at least partially explain the problem.

If it is warm and your marigold leaves are turning purple, the problem is very likely within the soil. It is possible to aid the flowers by using a fertilizer, but the best way to combat this problem is with prevention rather than cure. That means that next year, add phosphorous prior to planting. However, you should first test your soil so that you know how much phosphorous it needs. While too little will lead to poorly growing plants, too much can block the vital absorption of zinc, iron, and cobalt - all of which are needed for plant development.

Update: Since I first did research into purple leaved marigolds, I read a couple of more blog posts about how to "cure" the leaf color. One suggested that, with time, when the soil warms, it will correct itself. Another stated that epsom salts can raise the level of magnesium in the soil, which aids in the absorption of phosphorous. I am pleased to report that my marigolds are beginning to turn green again, though whether it's due to the warming weather or the epsom salt, I cannot say.

5 Tips for Gardening on the Cheap

Gardening is a fun pastime, a good form of exercise, and an excellent way to add fresh produce to the dinner table without a trip to the market. However, gardening can also require a steep investment from the outset, which can deter even the most devoted, yet budget-minded individual.


1. Share and Share Alike

If you are lucky enough to know others who also have a desire to garden, it is possible to share some of the expense. I missed the boat this year when I learned that a neighbor had soil delivered; we could have gotten a better deal had we ordered it together. Flats of plants are cheaper in bulk, why not purchase them with like-minded friends? You can also split the cost of rent for a community plot, buy bulk seeds together, or even split the price on renting a garden tiller.

2. Think Outside the Pot
When I was cleaning out the garage, I found a crate that would easily, and gorgeously, double as a plant container. Take a look around and you'll find all sorts of creative planters, from spare tires to wheelbarrows to old shoes. I later found out that crate was once my husband's nightstand in his bachelor days. That is truly recycling at work!

3. Don't Jump the Gun
Anxious to get your garden out? Don't be. Wait until mid-May and you will find many resellers have perfectly viable plants at bargain-basement prices. Yesterday, I purchased two flats of tomatoes and one flat of jalapenos for 50 cents each. I also bought an already producing tomato plant for the same price. They are priced down not because they are unhealthy but because they are outgrowing their containers. By waiting just a couple of weeks, you can pay up to $3 less per plant. If you're planting a dozen crops, like me, that adds up significantly. If you're planting even more, well, I don't even have to tell you how worthwhile it can be to wait.

4. To Seed or Not to Seed
Some garden plants do just as well, or even better, when started from seed. Watermelon, most squash, cucumbers, lettuce, and peas are well-known direct-sow plants. The cost of seeds is generally under $2 per packet, and each packet can produce several plants. If you have little space or light to start seeds indoors, like me, then try to be patient and wait for purchased plants or to direct sow in the garden. Otherwise, you could end up wasting a lot of time and money on seedlings that can't thrive, also like me.

5. Reap What You Sow
Of course, gardening doesn't end once the plants or seeds are in the ground. The garden requires constant care, which I hate to admit is something that I generally lack. I get very excited about my garden every spring, and when the newness wears off, I tend to focus in other directions. This is a huge mistake and one I hope that I, and you, will remedy this year. A well-tended garden is one that produces well and can provide nourishment for weeks or even months with very little expense from the outset.

How to Grow a Persimmon Tree

My son told me that he wanted to grow a tree, which is, I think, one of the coolest things ever. I was ordering some flower seeds from Dirt Cheap Seeds, and I told him he could pick any of the tree seeds that they had. He decided on the persimmon tree, which both shocked and delighted me. I had thought he would maybe shoot for a cherry, but the persimmon drew him in. He said the fruit looked like a mango, which is his most favoritest thing ever, right next to Star Wars, the Beatles, and dinosaurs.

I have done some research on how to grow a persimmon tree from seed, in the hopes that I can help him to be successful in his persimmony venture. What I learned was rather disheartening for an impatient six-year-old. Persimmon seeds need to be kept cold for about three months before they should be planted. They also need to be started indoors far before they can be transplanted outside. Maybe I should have looked up this information before I bought the seeds?

Update: I heard back from the fine folks at Dirt Cheap Seeds and learned that the seeds have indeed already been refrigerated and are ready to plant. I intend on purchasing some inexpensive pots for the kids to each try to grow their own persimmon tree and, instead of starting them indoors, we'll just stick them outside and see what happens.

Watch My Garden Grow

Today is Mother's Day and I have already received exactly what I asked for. Yesterday morning, my husband asked what I would most want to do on Mother's Day and I said that I wanted him to buy me some soil and mulch so that I could work in the garden, undisturbed. We went out after our son's t-ball game and bought the needed items and I spent the afternoon happily planting the tray of herbs and remaining pepper plants that hadn't yet made their way into my garden.

Not my garden.

The 6-year-old and I started our seeds indoors several weeks ago. They all did well and then they all died. THEY ALL DIED. The only seeds that survived were the peas that we threw into a container outside. The rest simply did not have enough sunlight inside our house to continue growing. So, I bought some plants from Walmart but the majority from a local reseller. He is an older man who buys his plants, mostly from nearby Amish growers, then resells at very reasonable prices. I bought peppers, many herbs, marigolds, and let the 6-year-old pick out anything he wanted (he chose a coleus). I plan on going back next week for more flowers, a teacher gift, and possibly a tomato plant or two.

I started a new board on Pinterest with caring tips for all of my garden plants. If I can rely upon the advice of others, instead of believing that I know everything about everything, which I so clearly don't, perhaps I can have the best garden that my very small space will allow.